aromatic profile: tuberose absolute

tuberose-absolute


Common name: Tuberose

Genus name: Polianthes tuberosa

Supplier: Proxisanté

Note: Heart

Family: Floral

Diffusion: 7

Blends well with: carnation, gardenia, jasmin, neroli, peru balsam, rose otto, violet, ylang ylang (Artisan Aromatics). Beeswax absolute, benzoin absolute, bergamot, amyris, bois de rose, caraway seed co2 and eo, carrot seed co2 and eo, clary sage eo and abs, clove bud eo and abs, coriander seed co2 and eo, frangipani abs, geranium eo and abs, ho wood eo, labdanum abs, mandarin eo, narcissus abs, neroli eo, oakmoss abs, orange flower abs, mandarin petitgrain eo, petitigrain eo, lemon petitgrain eo, rose abs, tonka bean abs, violet leaf abs, sandalwood eo and abs, ylang ylang abs and eo (White Lotus Aromatics)

Chemical components: Methyl benzoate, methyl anthranilate, benzyl alcohol, butyric acid, eugenol, nerol, farnesol, geraniol, 1,8-cineole, limonene, sabinene, a-pinene, b-pinene, indole, myrcene, camphor, methyl salicilate

Interesting bits: “The Pre-Columbian Indians of Mexico first domesticated the Tuberose, one of the most fragrant of all flowers. It was one of the first plants introduced to the Old World from Mexico.” – Eden Botanicals

“Tuberose (Polianthes tuberose) is a plant belonging to the lily family (Amaryllidaceae) native to Central America. Like most night blooming flowers, tuberose is pollinated by nocturnal moths, which explains the white shade of the flowers. Like jasmine, tuberose continues to produce its scent even after the flower is picked, thus, lending itself as a perfect candidate to the traditional painstaking enfleurage method.” – Bois de Jasmin

“In Ayurvedic tradition, tuberose is also known to stimulate serenity, creativity and psychic powers….tuberose is frequently combined with jasmine and orange blossom, lending further opulent depth to one and dark richness to the other.” -Bois de Jasmin

Their nose: “tuberose absolute opens up with a faint green note before warming into a sweet jasmine-like scent underscored by a rubbery accord. It vacillates between the coconut sweetness and the warm skin impression, as it dries down.” – Bois de Jasmin

“This sensuous deep orange-golden brown oil has a warm, very sweet, “plump” and most intoxicating floral aroma with peach leaf and soft spice-like background notes.” – Eden Botanicals

There’s a great article on Fragrantica with perfumer Pierre Bernard around the Tuberose note. It’s an insightful read with lots of good information.  I could cut and paste forever but the best thing would be for you to just mosey on over there and give it read.

My nose: as Tuberose opens up I get waxy, warm, soft, fruity, sweet and thick. 15min later it’s still warm, comforting, blossoms, the colour orange just jumped out, carnal, fleshy, natural, exotic and lush is what strikes me. 30min later and now its fully floral-POW! In your face floral, sweet, thick, lushiousness, plummy, deep, feminine, golden and oh, so beautiful! After 45min it gets fuller, almost as if it’s now waking up. It’s beguiling, tempting, engaging. This note saunters, sways, it’s in no rush; aphrodisiac, almost like you don’t recognise it’s a floral. As it slides into the heart notes 1 hour later I get such a strong impression of a woman! Fully present now, like a liqueur, yes, smooth, sensual, like a liqueur. Elegant and sublime. 2 hours and now it’s less warm, I sense it now ready to interact with other notes, seems like the true heart moment is opening up at this point; it nuzzles, comforts and reassures you.  3 hours and now it’s becoming sweeter, softer, more floral still, I can smell a slight decay of petals and it’s more quiet and even more composed if that is at all possible.  7 hours into the dry down and do I smell it together with pepper? Now I smell a powdery aspect that wasn’t there before; it’s greener too, also more fruity, drier, more down to earth. 24 hours and it’s settling down into the base notes and it’s still present on the strip though much softer, more alluring, the sweetness is a pure delight. This is a beautiful note all by itself! 4 days later and Tuberose is still identifiable on my scent strip!

Musings on composition: being a night blooming flower makes me consider other night blooming flowers to pair it with but also makes me want to take much care in supporting its gentle opening; notes that coax and coddle rather than poke and prod. Since I am drawn to compose by pairing or juxtaposing chemical compounds camphor strikes me as a possible note to pair with Tuberose, an aspect that would almost wake it up with verve the way I like to get up in the morning.

Keep exploring, being curious and wondering!

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4 thoughts on “aromatic profile: tuberose absolute

  1. Hi Maxine we’re back from the land of the Cypress!… so much fun, good weather and I got my Benzoe and Cypress oils that i wanted straight from the distillery on the hill – all these gorgeous refined products, and what you see there is old diesely tractors and scoopers, picking up the old lavender mass (‘pain de lavande’ it is called after it has been distilled ;-)) someone had just plunked the stuff in the middle of the working area and they had to cart it away again – i won’t tell you what the man said who had to clear it away but it wasn’t drawing room fashion at all… it’s the other side of the business.
    love to read your notes again, it’s one of the good things about being home again! And Tuberose, it’s funny how hard it is, isn’t it, to describe a fragrance? I know Tuberose rather well, though not the absolute – i have to try and extrapolate from other absolutes i know better – but your exploration kind of hit me right at the end where you mentioned the camphor. Then something went Aha! in my head. I love the night theme. Go girl!
    the more personal and different we get, the better – you’ll worry about how to sell it later…
    The essential formulas I make I tend to incorporate into incense, that’s one of the ultimate goals in what i do. One hundred percent natural smoke, from herbs, resins and oils, is a blessing. Yesterday i made a formula containing the Cypress – it wanted Rose de Mai to keep it company – and i felt like Cypress is an end to a road somehow, which is why people associate it with churchyards and passing on from this life…. in Provence, like in your part of the world i guess if you’re not too high up on the mountains – i saw lake Como in there – Cypress are everywhere, many different kinds. Loved your thuja berry tincture, I went straight on and put Juniper berries in Lavandin, as i got a lot of those and was wondering what to do with them…. the whole ‘pseudo-tincture’ idea came from you! grin.
    The Cypress-Rose formula got made into incense sticks (with bamboo in) they’re drying now, will try them later this week…. it’s an emotional business for me, bringing together things from a distant past into the present and into an art form that i love….. who knows, good has to come out of things like that, don’t you think?
    So, here it is my friend. Greetings from rainy Holland (they promise improvement in the next couple days) Eline

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    1. Greetings from the Alps, Eline, welcome back! Sounds like you had a nice holiday. Wow, oils straight from the distiller, you know how to shop! Also a nice experience to be there in the fields. We’re heading to Grasse in a couple weeks and I’m also planning to check out a couple suppliers. So glad you appreciate the articles, makes writing and posting even more gratifying :). I agree too about the selling, that will come later. Oooh, the incense theme, can’t wait to explore that one! Speaking of which I tested the Thuja berry tincture and it’s high time I filtered it, gotta do that next week. Glad our conversations are inspirational! Continue the exploration and have a wonderful weekend!

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  2. Hi Beautiful,
    This is a serious perfumery site. I did not think it was this elaborate…very impressive.
    Please keep this going!
    HUUugs,
    El

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