making scents with cedramber

cedramber


Thinking of making scents with Cedramber? This aroma chemical is made from Cedrol and according to Hermitage Oils Cedramber is a very nice ambery cedarwood substitute – a low cost alternative to the more costly synthetic ambergris forms – very widely used and particularly effective combined with the related Vertofix. Has both fixative and diffusive effects.

Common names: Cedramber

Chemical name: Methyl cedryl ether

CAS #: 67874-81-1

Supplier: Perfumer’s Apprentice

Note: Base

Family: Wood/Amber

Diffusion: 6+

Dilution: 10%

Blends well with: Cedarwood, sandalwood, labdanum, ionones, clove, cinnamon, civet, castoreum, vanilla, plum, some florals.

iso butyl quinoline, cistus twig/leaf oil, heliotropin, leerall, nutmeg, patchouli, calamus root, benzyl salicilate (TGSC)

Their nose: “Refined-woody, pleasantly green odor of good tenacity. This ether, occasionally offered commercially, may give refreshing and novel tonalities to woody and powdery fragrances, particularly those employing large amounts of Ionones, Labdanum, etc. Its odour type is not exactly a rare one, and it tends to put rather narrow limits to the application of this ether. It will inevitably detract from the amount of sweetness already present in a composition, but it is stable and non-discolouring in soaps and powders, etc. Overall, it is a material of little interest to the perfumer.” (Steven Arctander)

“extraordinary and has a bright quality between amber and patchouli. This is one of my favourite aromatics and it can be used in luxury perfumery as well as to give vitality to the qualities of Vertofix, as in functional perfumery, where it confers an uncommon character and fixes marvellously well the floral-aldehydic notes of undecylenic and cyclamen aldehydes, Lilial, Lyral and others.” (Arcadi Boix Champs)

“dry, very diffusive, true ambergris note that also has rich woody, cedarwood, dry aspects.” (IFF)

A dry, very diffusive, true ambergris note that also has rich woody aspects. (Perfumer’s Apprentice)

This is a lovely woody amber base comprising of Cedarwood frame with a soft warm Ambergris character. It has the complexity of Cedarwood with none of the harsh ‘pencil shaving’ notes. (Olfactik)

My nose: Cedramber opens up soft and plush, woody, pale, like twilight, it wraps you in a golden glow all neatly tucked away in a mother’s arms. Very, very, comforting. After 15min it settles into itself right away and remains soft and somehow even more silky and sumptuous. At 30min this is like silk and cashmere all rolled into one. It’s refined and whimsical, cedramber is like a slow dance with someone you never want to stop touching. I had to skip the 45min evaluation so on to the 1hr:  this layer remains warm, soft, delicate like ambergris, but it’s becoming dim. Still like an embrace. It’s dusty, more well-worn and comfortable. After 2hrs the ambergris element remains the central theme and it’s becoming more blanched, papery, dry warm and naked. 3hrs into the dry down and it’s totally ambergris and so similar to Ambroxan, wow! Warm, like liqueur and the colour vibration is just as golden. 7hrs now and it’s receded quite a bit like lukewarm water, dim, still effective but now it’s more early evening gloom. Earthy, ambergris, delicate and fluid. 12hrs brings to the forefront a light warm dusky, private sensation, it’s like a warm sanctuary that only a serious sense of duty can pry you from. The 24hr strip scent is just about gone, but the effect is still there, it’s close and indirect.

I think I’ve found a wonderful companion to my incenses and ambers. Yippee!

Whatchagonnamake this week?

In-joy,

MC


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