Musings on making scents with Fructalate: It was fun one to evaluate this aroma chemical; just like stepping back into my childhood again when company came over. They would give me and my brothers money because they hadn’t seen us in ages, and we hopped the back fence, and ran off as fast as our 10 year old feet would take us to the Short Stop (the equivalent of a 7Eleven in the States) for all the Gob Stoppers, Jolly Ranchers, Big Bubble and Popeye Cigarettes money could buy…ah, good times, good times!
Common names: Fructalate
Chemical name: 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, diethyl ester, raspberry dicarboxylate
CAS #: 72903-27-6 (Firmenich)
Supplier: Perfumer’s Apprentice
Note: Heart
Family: Fruity
Diffusion: 6
Dilution: 10%
Blends well with: Citruses or fruity notes.
Interesting bits: can give volume to fragrance compostitions with it fruity, raspberry, apple, ethereal notes. (Perfumer & Flavorist)
Fructalate is amazingly versatile – in small doses you can use it to enhance diffusion of almost any fragrance – larger proportions will give you a fruitiness that is dry rather than sweet and can be pushed in the direction of almost any fruit. It is especially good at enhancing room fragrances. (Hermitage Oils)
Fructalate is a remarkable performer when you’re searching for unbelievable boost…a fruity lift, says Master Perfumer Gary Marr. “It stands out among other fruity notes for its longlastingness, which reaches well into the middle of the fragrance to achieve remarkable diffusion.” Perfumer Etienne Bouckaert identifies Fructalate as the ultimate enhancer. “A chameleon among the fruity family. Fructalate magnifies the unique character, effortlessly pushing the bloom of a wide spectrum of fruity notes.” Perfumer Wessel Jan Kos adds, “Personally, I like to use it with citrus notes for liquid media to achieve outstanding freshness and pulpy juiciness.” (Perfumer & Flavorist)
Their nose: “Fruity, raspberry, apple, ethereal. Non−edible fruity note with good tenacity and volume. A long lasting fruity, berry note, which is powerful, affordable, and stable. The product is great in aircare and liquid applications for bloom and is used frequently for its boosting effects on fruity, citrus and herbal notes.” (Firmenich)
My nose: Fructalate opens fruity (no, duh!), sweet, berry, chewing gum, round, makes an instant impression. 15min into it and I am slapped with the memory of Jolly Ranchers! That’s the candy smell I couldn’t remember before. Fruity and juicy now. 30min later and it’s now drier, less juicier, fruity yes, the berriness is till there but it’s becoming much more hollow. After 45min it’s sweeter but much drier now, less generous, and a bit more ‘weathered’. After 1hr Fructalate’s fruitiness is fading quite quickly, it has slowed down quite a bit. 2hrs now and it’s a much softer fruit, more like a berry juice than a candy, less child-like, kiddy stuff, a bit more grown up fruit (if that makes any sense at all). Beginning to beat a steady retreat now. The smell after 3hrs is still fruity, soft and somewhat sweet, holding up okay event though fading. At the 7hr mark it’s still fruity – that impression doesn’t budge – but now its lighter, drier, and much more simpler. I missed the 12hr evaluation, rats! And the 24hr profile is still nice and fruity; it’s not as fresh as in the beginning, but still alive and well as a berry.
Enjoy the wonderful memories experimenting with scent brings your way today!
MC
hi Maxine
interesting.. kiddy fruit versus adult fruit. I totally get your distinction. I think the food industry assumes kids like easy-access fruit flavors and smells, like strawberry; whereas adults are supposed to ‘be able to handle more’ darker, bitter, or fatty-flowery kinds of smells. I’m thinking cassis in the first instance, mango in the second. Any thoughts? Personally as a kid i loved grapefruit and still do.
Interesting that fructalate actually supports longlastingness in citrus fragrances, as they tend to evaporate right in front of your eyes..
Question: do you get sudden, non-physical impressions of a fragrance? I mean, I smell neroli 3 times a week now, and there is no physical element around. In the car, anywhere. Strange? It comes out of my brain… hunh. It is very pleasant, so no complaints.. it’s not the same as thinking of the scent, it comes of its own accord when I am doing something completely different…
http://www.sensorystudies.org/sensorial-investigations/meditations-on-scent/
doesn’t have anything to do with that, but maybe you like.
Anyhoo, have a nice weekend!
Eline
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Hey Eline :),
Isn’t it interesting that there is a difference in smell between kiddy fruit and grown up fruit-y smells?! I wouldn’t have thought but there it is. I love all the citruses, too, can’t get enough of them and hoping to do a whole series on them soon.
Do you know, it happened to me last year, and I think I even wrote about it, that yes, I imagined the smell of Sandalwood while on a walk with the dog?! So yes, I totally understand what you mean. I wasn’t trying to think of what Sandalwood smelled like, it just popped into my consciousness without recall. And I was so elated because that’s scent “muscle” memory after some years of conscious exposure, imho.
Have yourself a wonderful Tuesday :)!
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