perfumery techniques in evolution

Perfumery Techniques in Evolution 2nd Edition by Arcadi Boix Camps is one of the books I invested in recently — and I’m really glad I did.  This book is destined to become a reference for me in my library.

I was between this and a year’s subscription to Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine and while neither is cheap the book is definitely worth its weight in gold from a perfumer’s perspective.  It gives a really good intro to some very little know chemical aromatics like:

“Myrcenile, ocymenile and citrile acetates, with fresh scents, somewhat grassy, almost like the citric part of bergamot, are of great interest.  Thuione has a warm scent, herbaceous, which falls under the subgroup of the camphors.”

Boix Camps also presents a different way of grouping the notes for example, Agresticals, Radiants, Greens, Roots, etc. which introduces new perspectives for a perfumer.  Each aromatic placed in the various groups is briefly introduced.

For a perfumer I find his writing style very different at times philosophical and poetic and other times very no-nonsense to the point of approaching arrogance.  But it is nonetheless interesting and opens up a wider vista from which perfumers can both approach and deepen the art.

It’s words like these that keep me reading:

“True creation will be that which awakens all to a greater sensibility and a higher spirituality, not that which renders them insensitive by reason of its arrogance, or without understanding by reason of its complexity.”

Amen, brother!

Frédéric Malle – On Perfume Making

Frédéric Malle - On Perfume Making (image credit: Amazon)
Frédéric Malle – On Perfume Making (image credit: Amazon)

 

Went on a bit of an online shopping spree last week and among other things I purchased this amazing book!

I’d been eyeing it for some time but the price put me off for a while but let me say, in the humble opinion of this aspiring perfumer in training, that it’s well worth every penny.

Monsieur Malle has become one of my perfume heroes for the fearless way he speaks his opinion about the IFRA’s heavy-handed, bull-in-a-china-shop approach to dealing with regulations in the perfume industry.  I applaud his courage and honesty in the face of a powerful lobby (sorry, self-appointed governing body) such as the IFRA.

That said, the book is a magical introduction into the world of some of the great masters of molecules with a glimpse into what inspires and motivates some of their creations. Masters such as Pierre Bourdon, Jean-Claude Ellena, Olivia Giacobetti and Dominique Ropion just to name a few are highlighted.

The next best thing to being in the same room with some of these icons is the opportunity to peer over their shoulder on paper into their artistic world and I can’t get enough of books like these that give me a chance to explore yet another facet of the wonderful world of perfume making.