Tag: aroma chemicals for perfumery

aromatic profile: citronellyl formate

Maxine Hyndman

citronellyl-formate

Scientific name: 3,7-dimethyloct-6-enyl formate

a.k.a.: Citronellyl Formate

CAS#: 105-85-1

Supplier: Perfumer’s Apprentice

Note: Heart

Family: Floral

Diffusion: Medium

Interesting bits: At 100% the odour is bergamot, cucumber, rose, apricot, peach, plum. At 20% it’s more sweet, green waxy, floral, apricot, citrus, mandarin! Citronellyl Formate is also a chemical component of Geranium.

My nose: Citronellyl Formate opens fresh, floral, geranium, rose, pink and clean. After 30min it’s much more geranium now, citronellol and citronella too! Clean and light. 1hr and now it’s very linear, same characteristics as before with little change, but it does seem wider, more ample though. After 2hrs the same, no real change, other than it regresses a bit and is not as powerful as in the beginning. 3hrs later and it’s lemony, sharp, geraniol, citronellol, still a bit floral and still very linear, like the one, constant note that keeps the rhythm in a beautiful piece of music. 7hrs into the dry-down and I’m still mainly getting geranium, still mildly pungent, citronellol, could definitely add consistency to a blend or accord. Now 11hrs later and it’s still very much geranium I get, but more rosey, floral, like it’s grown up and gotten serious all of a sudden, planted its feet on the ground and ditched the excess baggage.

Blends well with: Haven’t tried this one yet, but I can smell this doing well with the floral and the citrus family as well as Galbanum

Considerations: Citronellyl Formate will last for 24 months or longer if stored in a cool, dry place. Recommended usage levels are up to 5% in the total concentrate.

Have a great week-end!

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aromatic profile: cashmeran

Maxine Hyndman

cashmeran3

Scientific name: 1,2,3,5,6,7-hexahydro-1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4h-inden-4-one

a.k.a.: Cashmeran

CAS#: 33704-61-9 155667-06-4

Supplier: Perfumer’s Apprentice (USA)

Note: Base

Family: Woods, Amber

Diffusion: The real benefit, as per Fragrantica and my evaluation can back this up, is it has a medium potency in volume projection but a long trail that surpasses a full day’s length, my experience is more like two full days!

Interesting Bits: Cashmeran is commonly referred to as Blond Woods. It’s part of the musk family and is fairly inexpensive, a 1 oz bottle from Perfumer’s Apprentice is $18. “it’s scent profile takes over a vast sea between woods and ambers, abstract and indefinable,” says Fragrantica.

Cashmeran is hydrophobic (insoluble in water), it’s therefore a prime target for use in functional perfumery since it won’t rinse out, so you’ll find in anything from detergents to fabric softners.

Their nose: According to Fragrantica, it’s reminiscent of concrete (especially the abstract woody scent that concrete gives when hit upon by rain…) also lightly spicy lightly powdery…. It is, however used as a powerful floralizer, as it aids in the expansion of those notes, especially accords of Jasmine. TGSC calls it rich, spicy, musk, woody, clean.

My nose: Cashmeran never screams, it whispers. This opens up soft and powdery, youthful with a hint of what Ambergris is to me, musky, airy, light, spacious and a puff of clouds w/a hint of sweetness. 30min later it’s even more pronounced like its woken up; there’s a hint of an edge there which is interesting, like something bitter and dry. After 1hr now there’s a sharper quality to it and it’s even more peppery, definitely still soft and smooth, oh and the dry, woody part I get now! 2hrs later and Cashmeran gets softer and softer at times there’s a peppery quality to it but that edginess remains, still airy and powder but not overwhelmingly so. After 3hrs now there seems to be more sparkle and shine! It’s more luminous on the intake a hint of incense which reminds me of Sandalwood? so much more powdery and warm now! 7hrs into the dry down and now soft wood is the main impression, it’s drier and more of a background note, now it’s whispering. After 11hours Cashmeran is definitely dwindling but its softness persists, drier and more woody, more musky (but in a good way!).

Blends well with: other modern components like Ambroxan, the damascones, ethyl maltol etc. as well as naturals like Frankincense, Clary Sage, citrus, geraniol, linalool, Patchouli, Tonka bean Vetiver, etc.

Arcadi Boix Champs says that Cashmeran combines very well with green grass notes, “…it’s interesting to note the effects of Cashmeran with subtle, fruity chemicals and … absolute Maté,” in his book Perfumery: Techniques In Evolution 2nd Edition.

TGSC: Check out there, oh-so-useful “Blenders” tab for a host of other suggestions like Carrot seed eo(!), and Costus root.

Considerations: TGSC recommends smelling at 10% dilution or less, in fact 99% of all my synthetics are at this dilution. Cashmeran has a shelf life of up to 36 months or longer if stored safely, according to TGSC.

Have a beautiful Friday!