TSWR-citron, circles, Evernote and more


This Scented Week In Review for January 30, 2015:

TSWR gives me an overview of how my olfactory training and my life are meeting and feeding each other.  This week life gave me citrons and I’ve had to make some citron-ade. Let’s just say it was a challenging week but the evidence is there that my nose and my brain are moving in the same direction and that’s cause for even a tiny bit of personal pleasure.

Experiments – well, I’ve set aside my initial formulations for the project. I felt like I no longer had control over it and they weren’t expressing the direction of the brief. Therefore, I embarked earlier this month on a whole new set of experiments for my final perfume project.  Two sets of seven ratios. One set based around the heart notes of Neroli, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang complete and extra. And the second set around the heart notes of Tuberose, Helichrysum and Tiare, absolute. Now I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. (wherever there ends up taking me :))

Citron – Cédrat in French, or Cedro in Italian. I saw this at the grocery store and having the essential oil in my possession I had to hold the real thing, smell it, feel its rough skin. It’s about 2 or 3 times the size of a lemon and only faintly resembles it in smell. It smells more like grapefruit. The peel is very porous, bumpy and uneven.  When I dig into it a smell reminiscent of clementines fills my nostrils, the kind that we used to eat as kids. I just don’t get that smell any more. Citron is much less pungent than lemon or lime. It’s a subtle citrus.

Productivity – I can’t stop talking about the benefits I’ve reaped since starting to use Evernote in December. Since implementing it I am able to start my day with a clear desk! Not one piece of paper of things to do. It’s now my go to place for like, everything! From birthdays to goals to reminding me what size I need to crop my images for the blog and for my newsletter. Evernote does this and more. But forget productivity, the true benefit of this app is that it frees my mind to create and that, dear friends is worth all the data entry effort!

The Circle – more on this in the upcoming post on Lessons In Perfumery but needless to say that I have since freed myself from the Perfume Pyramid! Ahhhaa! I didn’t even know I was a perfume prisoner until I found the circle. It just makes so much more sense and there’s lots more room for play! Give it a whirl!






aromatic profile: cedrat/citron


Common name: Cedrat eo

Genus name: Citrus Medica

Supplier: Hermitage

Note: Top

Interesting bits: I found out that Cedrat “was one of the first citrus fruits to appear in the Mediterranean Basin” (Wikipedia). But beyond that, well, the real interesting bit is that I can find next to nothing on this essential oil!  I can’t even find much mention of perfumers use of it, outside of a finished product that is, which is really odd. This is good news though, it just means that as a nose in training I have to rely on my own judgment. Period.

My nose:  First impressions off the strip is thin, almost minty?!  I’m really getting more lime from this than anything else, citrus yes, but much lime, and the whole thing is very faint. After 30mins it’s just a ghost of the original impression, a very thin lime note.  After 1hr the note is barely a veil, hardly noticeable. 2hrs later there is still a trace but it’s very weak, but the pace of the fading seems to have slowed down.  After 7 hrs what little remains reminds me of Citronella.

Musings on composition:  this is a light-hearted, fresh material for spring and summer formulas; I’m feeling drawn to add it to my cologne experiments but definitely with a supporting actor like Cedrat Coeur or something.

Up next: Cedrat Coeur/Eclat de Cedrat/Cedrat Sensation